Monday, January 19, 2015

2014 was an amazing year of climbing! It began new years day in central Oman. Richard Woodhouse, Michael Mason, and I woke up and climbed a 7 pitch route on East Al Hamra Tower in the Jebel Shams region of the Hajaar mountain range. The route is called En Attendant les Lents, a route established by Thierry Renault. The name means "while waiting for the slow ones." This photo shows the east Al Hamra Tower on the left.
Here is Richard enjoying the exposure on pitch 3.
The three of us on the summit! The top of Jebel Shams, Oman's tallest mountain, is visible in the background.
Two weeks later I flew from Dubai to Phuket, Thailand. From there I traveled to Tonsai bay on the Phra Nang Peninsula via taxi and long-tail boat. My mission was to climb classic routes and help Josh Lyons with the "Thaitanium Project" re-bolting effort.
For those that are unaware, southern thailand suffers from severe corrosion problems with stainless steel bolts. The only material corrosion-resistant enough to be used for climbing bolts in southern Thailand is titanium. Titanium is extremely expensive and making all of the classic routes safe is not a cheap task. The project is funded by sales of the "Thaitanium Project" documentary. The film download and more information can be found at thaitaniumproject.com Here are some of the Ti bolts that donations in 2013 bought.

As a project volunteer, the job is pretty simple. Climb the route, Make sure the anchor is safe, drill and glue the titanium bolts, cut the stainless steel bolts off. Of course there is a bit of finesse that goes into it all, but once each route is complete they are safe to climb for decades. Here is the Thaitanium crew hard at work re-bolting the Melting Wall in Tonsai.

In this photo I am using a cordless angle grinder to cut the old stainless bolts off of a climb on Wee's Present Wall in Railay bay.
Here's the 2014 Thaitanium crew! From left to right thats me, Tom Cecil, James Gorton, Johnny Witteridge, Josh Lyons, and thats Jonas Wallin hanging out in the back.
I spent a month in southern Thailand climbing and re-bolting before making my way back to the U.S. to kick off another season of guiding at Seneca Rocks. Here is Brendan Mulhern scoping out a remote wall in the North Fork valley.
The summer season was full of guiding days, adventure climbing, and first ascents. Here is Harry Bonaiuto on the first ascent of a hidden crack not far from Seneca Rocks.
Once the season wrapped up in West Virginia around the end of October, I packed up my van with gear and drove out west. A month of climbing in Red Rocks and Joshua Tree with the Seneca Rocks crew led to everyone flying back east for Christmas. Here is Tori Konovalchik climbing South West Corner on the Headstone in Joshua Tree.
Here is Erin Miller sport climbing on The Gallery Wall in Red Rocks.
After spending Christmas with family and friends I made my way back to Seneca for one more day of climbing in 2014. Here's Tom walking to the crag.
Tom and I then packed up his truck and made the drive back out west to Las Vegas. We spent new years watching the fireworks on the Las Vegas strip from our friends' house near Blue Diamond. Great year of climbing! Bring on 2015!


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